Japanese Cotton Cheesecake

The jiggly one: barely sweet, impossibly light, baked in a water bath.

Prep Time30 mins
Cook Time70 mins
Total Time4 hr 40 mins
Yield10 servings
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Before You Start

This is a soufflé pretending to be a cheesecake, which is why it wobbles. Everything depends on the meringue and the water bath: soft peaks, not stiff, and gentle steady heat so it rises slowly instead of cracking. Cool it in the oven with the door ajar.

Instructions

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  1. Heat the oven to 150°C / 300°F. Line the base and sides of a 20 cm / 8 inch round tin with baking paper, and wrap the outside in two layers of foil so no water gets in.

  2. Melt the cream cheese, butter and milk together in a bowl over simmering water, whisking until completely smooth. Cool for 10 minutes, then whisk in the egg yolks one at a time.

  3. Sift in the cake flour and cornstarch and whisk until glossy and lump-free. Stir in the lemon juice and salt.

  4. Whip the egg whites with the cream of tartar until foamy, then add the sugar in three lots and whip only to soft, drooping peaks. Stiff peaks will crack the cake.

  5. Fold a third of the meringue into the cheese base to loosen it, then fold in the rest in two additions. Pour into the tin and tap it once on the counter to release big bubbles.

  6. Sit the tin in a roasting dish and pour in hot water to come 3 cm up the sides. Bake for 65 to 75 minutes, until risen and just set with a faint wobble.

  7. Turn the oven off and leave the cake inside with the door propped open for 30 minutes, then cool fully and chill for 3 hours before slicing.

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💡 Baker's tips

  • The slow cool in the oven is what stops it deflating dramatically. Some shrinkage is normal; a collapse means it cooled too fast.
  • Soft peaks look wrong to anyone used to pavlova. The meringue should flop over when you lift the whisk.

🔀 Make it your own

  • Add the zest of one lemon to the cheese base for a brighter, tangier cake.
  • Brush the cooled top with warmed apricot jam for the classic glossy bakery finish.

📦 Storing & freezing

Covered in the fridge for 4 days. Eat it cold or let a slice sit out for 20 minutes; it tastes creamier just under room temperature. It does not freeze well.

Frequently asked

Why did my cotton cheesecake crack?

Usually the oven was too hot or the meringue was whipped too stiff. Keep it at 150°C, use a water bath, and stop whipping at soft peaks.

How many grams is a cup of cake flour?

About 120 g per US cup, so the ½ cup here is 60 g. Cake flour matters in this recipe; plain flour makes the crumb noticeably heavier.

Baking in a different unit? Use the cups ↔ grams converter or the recipe scaler to halve or double this recipe.

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